Dog Collars: An accessory, usually cute, used for the purpose of displaying your dog’s tags and information.
This is the ONLY purpose dog collars have, and should be used for nothing else.
Let’s discuss.
Collars go around a dog’s neck, where their trachea lives. This lovely organ is also known as the windpipe and is required for breathing.
When you attach a leash to your dogs collar to walk them, it can cause irreversible harm. If you have trained your dog to walk on a loose leash, and they never pull, I’ll let it slide on this one. But if you have a dog that pulls, you are literally choking them out. When they pull, the collar pulls against the front of the dogs neck, obstructing their airway. If you’ve ever heard your dog cough or hack during or after walking on a collar, that is why. They can’t breathe right. This can also lead to tracheal collapse in dogs, which can cause a partial or complete obstruction of the dog’s airway, causing difficulty breathing.
On top of the safety concerns of having a puller, it’s also not an enjoyable experience for anyone. No one wants to be walked by their dog, when it should be the other way around. You also have little to no control over your dog when they are at the end of the leash, dragging you down the sidewalk. This can, has, and will lead to undesirable and dangerous situations. Yes, the number one solution to that is training, but there are other tools I will discuss at the end of this post to help as well.
There is also the possibility of your dog slipping or snapping their collar. As someone who has been working with dogs for over a decade, I have unfortunately experienced this more than I would like. (When working, the slip lead has become my best friend for this exact reason). Not all collars are created equal. Any collar can slip over their head and if it can’t, it’s too tight around their neck. If a dog pulls against you, such as when you are trying to get them to move and they are resisting, their collar can pop right off. Then you’re screwed. If it’s a collar with a buckle, that buckle could snap or give way. Again, screwed. Have fun chasing your dog around the neighborhood in your robe and slippers.
Now that we know why we should never walk our dog on a collar, let’s also discuss why we should never leave our dogs collar on when unsupervised.
The reasoning is similar, and relates back to their ability to breathe. I have heard a heartbreaking number of stories in which dogs have tragically lost their lives due to collar strangulation. Their collar, and especially their tags, can get caught on things causing the dog to get stuck. If that happens with their feet off the ground (for example, they tried jumping your 6ft backyard fence), they will suffocate at the hands of their collar. This is also why you should never crate your dog with a collar on, and you should never have them on a tie-out leash that’s attached to their collar.
You will often hear people suggest a quick-release collar for that reason (a collar that is designed to snap open if too much pressure is placed on it). However, as we can see, there is too much possibility for tragedy with a collar. Especially when it can be prevented.
There is one final collar concern to cover before discussing alternative, and better, options.
If your dog is wearing a collar as an accessory, which is its only acceptable use, there is something to know and something to remember.
Let’s learn the two finger rule… If your dog wears a collar, make sure you can put at least two fingers underneath the collar (while they’re wearing it). If you can’t, it’s too tight.
Remember… You HAVE to take it off! Not only when crated or unsupervised, but on a regular basis. At least every single night they need to be free and nakey.
If your dog’s collar never comes off, it can lead to bacterial and fungal infections, skin irritations and rashes, as well as hair loss and bald spots under the collar. This absolutely sucks for the dog and causes them pain. It also sucks for your credit card when you get handed that vet bill from a vet with a very judgement look on their face. Don’t be that person.
And for the love of all things fluffy and furry, please wash your dogs collar! Almost all of them can go through the washing machine, or you can get crazy with one of those tiktok bathtub detergent situations. You can even take it to the fluffing dry cleaners. I don’t care, just wash it. Wash their leash while you’re at it.
Now that we are clear on collars being for nothing other than a dapper, bow-tie adorned, tag holding accessory that comes off and gets washed on a regular basis, lets discuss alternatives.
Just to cover all the bases, I’ll start by saying your dog should be micro-chipped. The information attached to that micro-chip should also be up to date and accurate. If you don’t know what that is, please call your vet.
Option #1 – The Harness Lead – $35
Can purchase on Amazon or in your local pet store.
This is a magical creation and I swear by its sorcery. My beautiful pittie boy is in training for his leash manners because he pulls like a maniacal mad man who’s had one too many. The Harness Lead has without question been the most successful tool for Riley’s pulling (no, this is not sponsored, I’m just grateful my arms are still comfortably in their sockets). When we go out on walks, it is accessorized with his bow-tie tag-holder, as you can see in the pictures above.
Option #2 – Easy Walk Harness – $25
Can purchase on Amazon or in your local pet store.
This is the only harness I have ever known to actually work for pulling. Simple, affordable, and effective. These were the harnesses we used at a doggie daycare I used to work at, and they made our lives so much easier on walks.
Option #3 – Any harness
If pulling is not a concern, and you’re just looking for a safe alternative to choking your dog out or an unforeseen spooking of a scary bicycle that passes a little too close, any harness will work. Of course, they are not all made equal in terms of quality and pulling, so do your research based on what you are looking for. You can also attach your dog’s tags to a harness, instead of collar to ixnay the collar completely.
Option #4 – Gentle Leader – $25
Can purchase on Amazon or in your local pet store.
This is a good tool for your average puller. The ones that aren’t dragging you down the path to grandma’s house, but it’s not exactly leisurely either. My family has used this happily and successfully for two of our dogs, a Bernese mountain dog and a golden retriever. I have also used it for Riley before, though he needed something of a higher caliber.
This last option is geared toward those who work with dogs, such as dog walkers or dog handlers.
Option #5 – Slip Lead – Average $15
Can purchase on Amazon or in your local pet store.
This is not a recommendation for pulling, as it goes around their neck.
For my job, I bring dogs from their homes to our company car, and then back again after playgroup. Some of them are on collars… I have had one slip their collar, one almost slip it, and coworkers have had them snap. The slip lead is our best friend and prevents collar chaos. There is also an adjuster on the leash that stops it from loosening to the point they can slip out. Game changer.
If the dog you’re using it on is a major puller, you can slip one of their front legs through the leash. It will sit diagonally across the front of their body and will prevent a leash chokehold. I don’t recommend this if they’re a wiggle worm… I think you can do the math on that one.
Part of being a pawrent is always ensuring the best for our fur babies.
So, let’s cancel the collars in any form of functionality, keeping them only for conscious accessory.
Myself and the dogs thank you,
With love, good vibes, and better walks,
Ash
